SKOF - Tweezered Tartlets, Table Chats with the main man and the Poshest Bit of Bread Dipping I’ve Ever Done

 



You know those restaurants that feel like they’ve always been there, even though they opened about five minutes ago? That’s SKOF. Tucked behind a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it door just off the bustle of Manchester’s Northern Quarter, it looks like the kind of place you’d find an underground jazz night, or one of those tucked-away supper clubs you hear about three weeks too late. Turns out, it’s neither – it’s a swanky but not snooty spot that’s already giving “destination dining” energy. And honestly, it just works.

Walk in and it’s all exposed brick, soft leather booths, and quietly confident lighting – like if Soho House got a personality transplant and decided to chill out a bit. It’s cool but welcoming, the kind of place where you could wear heels, but also no one would care if you turned up in Converse and the kind of confidence that comes from knowing your socks match.


We kicked things off with a glass of Bee Tree by Sugrue – a homegrown English sparkler that set the tone perfectly. Bright, crisp, and just fancy enough to remind you you’re not in your usual Friday night pub. Not trying too hard, just... good. One sip in and we knew we were in good hands.





First up came a round of dainty little bites that looked like they’d taken someone’s full shift to tweezer into place — and honestly, they probably had. Most memorable? The Dexter Beef Bavette — reimagined as a tiny tartlet crowned with black pepper and grilled sprouting broccoli. It looked almost too neat to eat — but I managed. Next came the Spenwood Cheese Biscuit with whipped roe and shiso, delicate and savoury with a broad bean pop; and rounding off the "snacks" was the cured mackerel on potato flatbread with fermented gooseberries and dill. It was like edible origami — tiny and clearly made by someone who really loves tweezers.

And just when we thought the bar had been set, things somehow levelled up — the kind of shift where conversation just stops because what’s on the plate completely takes over.

Kicking off the main sequence was the Orkney Scallop, cloaked in foamy brilliance with fried oyster and asparagus. It melted. Not in the cliché way, but in a very real, buttery, “was-that-even-chewed?” way.

                                        


We were then invited up to enjoy a course at the open-plan chef’s table — a thoughtful, theatrical touch. It was here we got to chat with Tom Barnes himself as we ate, which felt a bit like dining with culinary royalty but in the kind of setting where everyone’s still having a laugh. Proper sound, and clearly knows his stuff.

A rich, deeply savoury bowl arrived with something shredded and mysterious perched on top, looking like haute cuisine’s take on pulled brisket. Turns out it was hen of the woods mushrooms nestled in a lightly set miso custard, served warm and packed with flavour — cosy food. The kind of dish that lingers in your mind all the way home.

From there, we moved into spring comfort mode with buttery Jersey Royals, proper buttery and the sort of potato that makes you feel smug for choosing the tasting menu.

Then came the Steamed West Coast Cod, swimming in delicacy with cuttlefish, lemon thyme, and kohlrabi — elegant, balanced, and quietly confident.



The Heritage Beef Shortrib followed — rich, fall-apart and full of flavour, especially with the black garlic and spring cabbage setting it off. It was served with a square of glazed brioche that shimmered like it had been buffed to perfection. We were encouraged — with a wink from the cheeky maître d’ — to mop up the sauce with it, and once the seed had been planted, there was no turning back. Probably the poshest bit of bread-dipping I’ve done in my life.

The sweetness then arrived in waves: first with a refreshing Amasake Sorbet infused with milk oolong tea. When I saw 'sorbet' on the menu, I braced for the usual palate cleanser — cold, a bit bland, and barely there. But this was anything but. Silky, flavourful, and surprisingly rich — it reminded me of white chocolate in the best possible way, then a gorgeous plate of Forced Wye Valley Rhubarb with jasmine cream and rose geranium.

We closed with Manchester Honey Ice Cream (nostalgic but classy), and finally, Barney’s Tiramisu — creamy and rich, and exactly what you want to finish on when you’re already a few wines deep





Before we wrap — a word on the team. Every single member of staff we met was warm, knowledgeable, and clearly loved what they were doing. Professional without being stuffy, and with a good sense of humour that made the whole experience feel genuinely welcoming.

It’s also worth saying — getting a reservation here is no small feat. It books up fast, and now I fully understand why.

Final Thought

SKOF isn’t just a meal — it’s a whole little moment. Everything just works, from the way the food lands to the relaxed but on point service. You leave feeling a bit spoiled and already wondering how soon you can justify going back.

Would I go again? In a heartbeat. Just need to remortgage first.

                                                                                                                      

The Menu: 

Here’s what came out of the kitchen:

  • Spenwood Cheese Biscuit – broad bean, whipped roe, shiso

  • Cured Mackerel in Horseradish – potato flatbread, fermented gooseberries and dill

  • Orkney Scallop – asparagus, fried oyster and dulse

  • Lightly Set Miso Custard – hen of the woods mushroom, truffle, mushroom dashi

  • Steamed West Coast Cod – cuttlefish, lemon thyme, kohlrabi

  • Dexter Beef Bavette – black pepper, grilled sprouting broccoli

  • Heritage Beef Shortrib – black garlic, split pea, spring cabbage

  • Amasake Sorbet – milk oolong tea

  • Forced Wye Valley Rhubarb – jasmine cream, rose geranium and almond

  • Manchester Honey Ice Cream – floral herbs, poached pear

  • Barney’s Tiramisu – no notes, just joy

The Wines:

  • Maculan, Vespaiolo – Veneto, Italy, 2023

  • Domaine Léon Boesch ‘Les Grandes Lignes’ – Alsace, France, 2023

  • Tournon, Mathilda – Victoria, Australia, 2022

  • Roucas Toumba, Les Premices – Rhône Valley, France, 2022

  • Planeta, Burdese – Sicily, 2019

  • HJ Wiemer, Late-Harvest Riesling – Finger Lakes, USA, 2022

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